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You need to check what type of refrigerant you have, as many refrigerants have been phased out over time and replaced.

@@SaveGreenHere I have R32 refrigerant.

Yes. Machine is off. Technically the electrical doesnt even need to be connected yet. This is just to make sure that there is no air or moisture in the line and also that there are no leaks. If the pressure were to rise you either have a lot of moisture in the the line or there is a leak at one of your connection points and air is getting in to the the line.

Not recommended. You don't want pool chemicals going through these heaters.

Yes you can. You will see the wire ends, and just connect them to this, and you can then plug it....... amzn.to/3ReXLcx

You're welcome

What do you see on the gauges? Does the fan work?

Turn ALL Indoor units ON. The air temperature should be the SAME on all 3 Indoor units. If not, Gas Charge needs to be checked and corrected. If your pipe lengths are within Fujitsu requirements, then the Gas Volume on the Outdoor Name Plate is the correct weight. Multi splits will have a Refrigerant Liquid Reciever that has some extra Gas for High Demand when units are turned ON, so the Name Plate Gas Volume is IMPORTANT. 🇦🇺

Appreciate it!

One million percent agree!

Sure!

Nice! Just stay away from bleach as it corrodes metals at a super high rate. Use vinegar. This one you just add to water as it is concentrated...... amzn.to/454Zy9Z

@@SaveGreenHere Thank you. I'll switch to vinegar as you suggest.

Vinegar works well. Alternatively, you can try this and it does it automatically. Ones less thing to worry about, and it can save many households a single service call fee. A few that I know have had it installed, and swear by it........ amzn.to/3wPgZPe

@@SaveGreenHere Oh that is cool. Thank you!

Glad you like it! I have had mine 4+ years now.

You're welcome!

If you add another unit, make sure you do not use the same electrical circuit.

Not sure they appear as a tax credit qualifier. You may want to contact the manufacturer. I did another video where there is ample info....... ruclips.net/video/i_ZiIuHh2iE/видео.html

Very common, just not very common because of many wrong installation practices. Check out their site...... doucetteindustries.com/ We estimated between 10% to 20%, depending on the age of the HVAC system. The older more inefficient HVAC systems, saved more, due to their inefficiencies. In my case, I would completely turn off my water heater at the breaker panel, from the first of May until November end of November, so like 7 months. This of course, being in a very hot climate in South Florida. So easy to say, 60% to 70% water heater savings. Seven months of the water heater totally disconnected from electricity. The other months, it probably made the water heater work less, as the water coming into the tank was already pre-heated. But, this is dependent on the geographical location. The hotter the climate, the more savings, because the HVAC system runs more. It's that simple. You can see a seminar here-----> ruclips.net/video/i_ZiIuHh2iE/видео.html

Hopefully you used this coupon--->aklam.io/pEPoxw it gives you $100 coupon which is just over 3 months of the $30 service plan. They should contact you soon, it all depends on the workload in your area.

None whatsoever. The issues I have seen is poor installation, and the refrigerant lines connection AFTER it leaves the condensing coil, which is totally wrong because by then, the refrigerant line is not as hot. You need the heat transfer to occur BEFORE the refrigerant even enters the coil. That not only give you the hottest water, but also allows the heat exchanger to help the air conditioner gain more efficiency, because by then, the condensing coil has less heat to remove, because the heat exchanger already took some of that heat and transferred the heat to the water line. Hope this makes sense.

Awesome! Before starting, no hoses should be connected to your gauge set and both valves on the gauge set should be closed. 1. Connect blue hose to low side of manifold gauge set. (amzn.to/3wSNpIA) 2. Connect blue hose with adapter to mini split. (amzn.to/3X461jc) 3. Open low side manifold valve slightly. Refrigerant will bleed through manifold and out the middle port while you do this. 4. Close low side manifold valve. You have just purged air out of the blue hose and low side of manifold. 5. Connect yellow hose to refrigerant cylinder and manifold. DO NOT OPEN CYLINDER VALVE. 6. Connect vacuum pump to high side of manifold. (This dual stage 1/2 HP is perfect for mini splits.... amzn.to/3VfHPsU) 7. Open ONLY the high side manifold valve. 8. Turn on your vacuum pump. You are now evacuating air from your cylinder hose and the rest of your manifold. It doesn’t take long. 9. Close high side manifold valve. 10. Turn off the vacuum pump. You are now free to open the low side manifold valve and cylinder valve to add refrigerant per instructions for recharging the system.

Check your error code log. Google the pc03 error code for mini split, using the brand.

Unfortunately because the installation is usually not done properly, by tapping into the refrigerant line IMMEDIATELY as it exits the compressor, BEFORE it enters the condenser coil.

Don't know if anyone else makes them.

Yes, and in cooling mode.

Glad it was helpful!

Links are in the video description. Use this appliance cable and you should be all set..... amzn.to/3URFfbn Just run the wire to the inside with the refrigerant lines, and plug it. NOTE: If you are running other high power equipment on the same breaker, it will trip. So always best to use a dedicated circuit, or not overload the circuit.

@@SaveGreenHere right on

You are welcome!

Do this running in COOLING mode.

This...... amzn.to/3UUuLb9

Purging is using refrigerant to push the air out of the charge hoses. The refrigerant replaces the air. Vacuuming is evacuating all air & refrigerant out of the system leaving a total vacuum.

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You're putting a vacuum on it, not pressurizing it, so you won't get bubbles when you spray it. If you can somehow pressurize it then you should find leaks that way, otherwise make sure you didn't leave a connection loose... Did you put Nylog blue on the flares? I haven't installed a mini split yet, but I'm researching it and read that factory flares tend to leak, but Nylog blue will help them to seal.

Correct! Here's the Nylog blue link...... amzn.to/3UUiVhg

Thank you both. I'll check out the Nylog Blue.

I would also recommend using a torque wrench when you make your connections. Most people dont but there is a reason it is recommended. Too tight OR too loose is bad. As a service technician this was one of the most common issues with minisplits that eventually stopped working; refrigerant leaks because a torque wrench was not used.

Keep it on vaccuum for a good while. If it holds without moving the needle, you should be ok. However, a micron gauge is the better way. Here's an affordable one. Well worth it...... amzn.to/4bdNw0a

I would recommend more than 15 minutes. Like an hour. And a micron gauge. The vacuum process is one of the most critical for the longevity of your system.

Yes, on COOLING MODE.